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Looking at my reflection, I can see myself in oversized golden pantaloons, perceptible exclusively in my view. Kids relax in a rock pool imitating sea nymphs, and adjacent sits a talking pea in a showcase, next to a imposing mound of mattresses. It represents the world of H.C. Andersen (1805-1875), one of the 19th century’s most beloved storytellers. I find myself in Odense, situated in the island of Fyn in the southern region of this Nordic country, to investigate the writer's lasting influence in his native city 150 years after his passing, and to experience a handful of enchanted tales of my own.

The Museum: HC Andersens Hus

HC Andersens Hus is the city’s exhibition space dedicated to the writer, incorporating his first home. An expert notes that in earlier iterations of the museum there was scant attention on Andersen’s stories. Andersen's biography was examined, but The Little Mermaid were missing. For guests who visit the city looking for storytelling magic, it was not quite enough.

The renovation of downtown Odense, rerouting a main thoroughfare, provided the opportunity to rethink how the renowned native could be commemorated. A major architecture competition gave the architects from Japan the renowned designers the project, with the innovative curatorial vision at the center of the structure. The unique timber-clad museum with interlinked curving spaces launched to much acclaim in 2021. “We’ve tried to design an environment where we avoid discussing the author, but we speak in the manner of Andersen: with humour, irony and viewpoint,” explains the curator. The landscape design embrace this concept: “It’s a garden for wanderers and for giants, it’s designed to give you a sense of smallness,” he says, an objective accomplished by thoughtful gardening, manipulating elevation, proportion and many winding paths in a deceptively small space.

The Writer's Legacy

He authored two and a half personal accounts and regularly contradicted himself. The exhibition embraces this concept fully; typically the opinions of his friends or excerpts of correspondence are displayed to subtly challenge the writer's personal account of incidents. “Andersen is the guide, but his account isn't always accurate,” says the expert. The effect is a engaging rapid journey of Andersen’s life and art, thinking patterns and most popular narratives. It is thought-provoking and fun, for mature visitors and youngsters, with a additional basement make-believe land, the pretend town, for the smallest guests.

Exploring Odense

Returning to the physical town, the small city of Odense is charming, with stone-paved roads and old wooden houses painted in cheerful shades. The author's presence is everywhere: the traffic lights display the storyteller with his iconic top hat, metal shoe prints give a complimentary Andersen walking tour, and there’s a outdoor exhibition too. Annually in August this focus reaches its height with the annual HC Andersen festival, which honors the his influence through creativity, movement, stage shows and musical performances.

Recently, the multi-day event had 500 shows, the majority were free. While visiting Odense, I come across colorful performers on stilts, fantastical beings and an Andersen lookalike sharing tales. I hear empowering poetry and see an amazing nocturnal display including athletic artists lowering from the municipal structure and suspended from a crane. Upcoming events this year are talks, family art workshops and, broadening the narrative tradition past the author, the city’s regular wonder event.

All good enchanted locations need a castle, and this region features 123 castles and manor houses across the island

Biking Adventures

Like most of Denmark, cycles are the best way to travel around in the city and a “bicycle route” meanders through the downtown area. From the local hotel, I cycle to the public waterside bathing area, then beyond the city for a route around Stige Island, a compact territory joined by a bridge to the larger island. Town dwellers picnic here after work, or enjoy a peaceful time catching fish, aquatic activities or swimming.

Back in Odense, I dine at Restaurant Under Lindetræet, where the culinary offerings is inspired by the writer's motifs and stories. The verse the national ode is featured during my meal, and proprietor the restaurateur recites passages, translated into English, as he serves every dish. Such encounters frequent in my days in the city, the fynbo enjoy storytelling and it feels as though narrating is always on the menu here.

Castle Explorations

Each wonderful fairytale destinations deserve a palace, and this region features numerous historic homes and stately homes throughout the region. Taking day trips from Odense, I tour Egeskov Castle, the continent's best-preserved Renaissance water castle. Despite parts are accessible to the public, Egeskov is also the family home of Count Michael Ahlefeldt-Laurvig-Bille and his partner, the royal resident. I wonder if she would notice a tiny vegetable through a pile of {mattresses